Jesus... I have an S1 myself, and this is a pretty scary thought. How would you suggest to go about checking the cables before something like this happens?
In all seriousness if it is on fire turn off the source of power. Either at the printer (if it is safe enough to do so) or the surge protector. If neither is an option then unplug or flip the breaker if possible. That may help put the fire out or reduce it a bit. Then use anything other then water (co2 extinguisher or smother) and make sure emergency services is on the way while doing all of this. The fire might be out by the time they get there (hopefully), but that doesn't mean the danger is over. They will be able to determine that better depending on how bad things got. If you got it in time and there is no worries of that and you called you can still call to cancel them from coming.
In all silliness: you can now roast your 3d printed marshmallows.
Maybe not on here but I have seen a bunch if posts about issues with the power supplies. From what I have seen it's usually someone who ran it on the wrong power setting.
Bad voltage selection (which is clearly articulated in the set up instructions), or pinching power cables is hardly the fault of the machine unless there’s some inherent design flaw.
I don't care who is at fault, just that the problem gets solved and hopefully someone doesn't burn their house down in the process. Creality is hardly a company known for quality though and I would not rule out there being inherently poor designs. I run a business with multiple Ender 3 printers and have seen a whole host of poor engineering and lack of QC from Creality. Enough to say I will not buy another item from them.
For those wondering this is what it looked like from the bottom
https://preview.redd.it/erxdlhyvsq3b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22454c837bb262d0d5545990b40d005fd5305580
That makes me want to cry, for lack of a word. My S1 has been collecting dust for a year. I'm too busy with life shit to gain fun skills. I just feel bad that people the the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, and I have a machine with old Marlin firmware that max out at 40 mm/s. I know people who are perfectly happy with their Ender 3 from MicroCenter. If something terrible happened with my printer, I'd be bummed to have spent $450 for a device that became faulty.
What do you mean 40 mm/s, I was printing at 70 when my Ender 3 V2 was stock. You can totally get a raspberry pi or something similar, install klipper and print at 150 for like 50 bucks
You haven't been able to get a Raspberry Pi for MSRP for years unless you're as lucky as a lottery winner. They just announced they're increasing production but we'll see how that turns out.
That said, once you can/do get one definitely go with klipper.
The S1 Pro is fantastic at least in terms of ender printers. It's still a creatily made printer of course but it has all the needed bells and whistles and I'm impressed with the print resolution even with the stock nozzle so far.
They are effectively saying that the wires broke inside the line so that less contact points existed; thus resistance was increased and heat builds up. That seems like legalese from using shit wires.
bingo, theyre probably riding the razors edge in terms of ampacity overhead. id also hazard a guess the internal wires are pvc jacketed instead of silicone which just speeds up the process
Recently repaired exactly the same problem 1:1
The cables seemed covered in silicone rather than PVC, I don't recall them being aluminium too.
Had to cut into the plastic, then resolder and reseal it. It's not ideal, but rather a temp solution. The gauge could be considered good enough, but it depends. An improper design seems more likely since the issue I repaired was caused by user error and hard kinking the cable.
From the picture you posted on another comment, there are no sings of bending.
Shitty creality.. Is scaring. I would ‘mod’ that cable totally replacing it.
it looks to me like there was a nick in the wire which led to a short circuit over time. if the conductors inside were nicked then that would lead to voltage drop which causes more amperage draw (which generates heat)
Yeah if this was a loose connection point on a board or something I’d get it, but for the moulded cable to start melting. Last place I’d expect something to go up in smoke
Ideally they would ask OP for the NG cable and do an investigation of the failure if this is a first report for them.
If this is not the first report of this specific failure it would definitely be warranted.
To blame it on shipping damage right off the bat makes me feel this isn’t the first instance of this problem they’ve received.
If anything it sounded like a generic response. They couldn’t even get my name right in the emails, all I got was “dear customer” even though my name listed
Poorly designed strain relief. The strain relief portion of the cable is too stiff. So the cable just bends where it exits the strain relief.
The wires are braided, so probably it slowly broke them until they there were fewer and fewer wire strands to carry the current. You get an area of high resistance and it gets hot real quick.
For us is the bed thermistor wiring. It's very cheap and breaks inside the insulation so your bed temp suddenly goes whack and throws an error. I've resoldered mine 2 times now, finally with decent wiring.
It’s reality that quality control has hit the ground floor and mis headed for the basement
It’s not just chinese printers - I’ve had bad quality control with HPE enterprise hardwares, gaming hardware from all vendors.
It has just hit rock bottom over the last couple of years
True mate I’m SuRe all of us wouldn’t want their private plane to not have an internet connection.
Of course if something goes wrong they will perform a complete investigation, while ignoring all the facts and burning all the evidence until of course they found one of us low paid plebs to take the fall.
Of course one of us would end up in super max prison while they will get a hefty fine and maybe even miss lunch as a result.
Justice is blind but it sure can smell money.
These are usually advertised as "microwave smoke cut off" devices, to catch microwave fires. If you're in the USA, they have them at Home Depot and similar.
If this helps at least one person or helps in making creality fix their damn QA it’s worth taking the extra 10 sec to film it. However I do agree that in most situations filming is the last thing that should be done.
Have you got enough clearance behind the bed to the wall when the bed is fully rearward?
Kinda looks like the cable has been bent against the wall because theres not enough room, very possibly just a bad join from the factory though.
Also if you're seeing something electrical actively trying to burn your house down you should turn it off before you reach for the phone
The table thing it’s sitting on is maybe 3 inches away from the wall. It’s not hitting the wall and besides leveling, haven’t really printed anything that causes the bed the move that far back throughout the print.
As for the video, took it to hopefully help in the warranty claim.
My 4 year old cr10s pro just went out the same way last week. I couldn’t find a replacement heated bed online and the pad came up when I desoldered the wire, so the bed was shot. I just bought a cr10 smart pro at micro center on Wed and I’m hoping to get at least 4 years out of this before I need to replace it. My anycubic photon S’s touch screen went out on my the prior weekend and I ordered the photon mono m5s but that won’t arrive until August. I had a bad printer week. FYI buy a smoke detector to place above your fdm printer everyone, may save a life.
I’m currently attempting to build an enclosure and that’s my plan. Will add another camera at the back and perhaps that fire suppression ball I’ve seen used on this subreddit. Definitely getting a smoke alarm too!
Interesting. I've never seen a cable melt at this point. No way I would have figured it out beforehand. If I'd let the printer run on its own I'd just had to accept my faith of a burned down house I guess.
Wow, not good but at least it's only smoking. Guessing and hoping it's just a bad qc issue or maybe the wire wasn't seated right. I have a smart pro and it slightly worries me but in this case you would've never known.
Nothing really. At first I even thought it was maybe filament or something. Didn’t believe that the printer decided to start burning until I looked closer and smelled it.
Probably a minor defect in one of the wires, a tiny break. And likely the wire awg is riding the limits to keep the size/cost down, so any little defect will become an issue, probably failed a long time ago or bad from the factory and it’s now finally gotten bad enough to create enough heat to melt the cable
Was it catching the rear stepper motor when you'd print? Had to tighten mine up so it would stop, was afraid it would eventually rip itself out or short it
From when I set it up I made sure to clear everything and ensure it’s smooth. Maybe I missed something and it was ever slightly touching but even then the spot where the burn is, it’s almost impossible to touch anything.
The exact same thing happened to me! And I have the exact same model! Started to give me errors that the bed never got up in temp. And I split the cable and searched for the fault and it was the red powercable. It looked like the copper wire had been cut off and not worn off. Cause It was a clean cut.
They REALLY need to look in to this before something serious happens!
(Im a electrican so I know what im doing and looking for so I dont recomend anyone to do the same!)
Ironically, it looks like the thick insulation is what caused this to happen, I wonder if removing it would allow the cables to be more flexible, and thus avoid this happening again?
On the other hand, have you been doing any large prints? Maybe ones that made the bed move all the way to the back? Possibly hitting the wall?
Because in the bottom view picture, I can see the thick insulation surrounding the wires coming out of the stress relief grommet. This suggest repetitive stress on that joint. And thus, this would cause the wires to bend/short out.
Also, if you dont mind, could you trace the power wires for the bed back to the motherboard and check their gauge? So we can verify this might have been the cause?
If something's burning already, it's already a short circuit, isn't it? I mean if it killed something, it can't kill anything else later. Would love to know if I'm wrong
Probably used wires that were too small (but might have been just big enough if you use PWM control) that somehow broke when being bent (due to being very small) or was soldered / crimped there (likely highest point of resistance on the wire, causing a lot of heat)
It seems some of the electric cables within that line broke their insulation and the live wire touched or were near enough for a shortcut, creating heat like a toaster. Possibly the cable was bend during transportation or installation.
I had this happen to my S1 Pro as well and posted in this sub to get some help. I was told by a user that the likely cause was because my cord was hitting the back wall of my fabric enclosure, causing friction and wear over time. I can’t tell from your video, but is it possible that your cord is hitting the wall behind your printer?
I'm really considering buying a FDM printer but this it the exact thing that bothers me..
Of course i wouldn't let my printer run while i'm not here, but fire can spread fast.. really fast.. Not catching this in time could result in a catastrophic failure :(
I have one as well and just had to replace the bed due to a failure in this area as well, it didn’t short out like this one did though. While I was waiting for the new bed to arrive I took apart the harness and inspected the wiring, they use very fine multi strand wire which is silver, it’s extremely flexible but felt very cheap. I would assume the wiring they need to use has to withstand the constant repetitive movements but I couldn’t see a way to improve the harness without losing flexibility.
Within a week of getting mine I had gouges in the bed cable from it rubbing against the motor. Went ahead and printed a bed chain and strain relief boot it to protect it. Hopefully that prevents things like this.
So... Did creality happen to tell you what the amperage draw of that machine is supposed to be? If you can find that out you can put an ammeter on this line coming in and see if the problem is too much draw, or if it was just a bad lead. Hopefully it was just a bad lead, and the lead can be easily replaced or you can make your own if you want to have more confidence.
If you are really fed up with this or concerned about going forward, you could send this whole machine and the wire to me and I will look into it for you. Let me know.
So lets say this happened what should i do how can i fix it im new to this stuff can someone explain im thinking about buying a 3d printer and as a tight budget hobbiest i thought s1 looks good is there any alternatives other than a prusa
My first printer had exposed contacts for the heat bed and I accidentally put a paper lamp on the contacts and caught it on fire, it was a rough lesson learned that day.
Installed a cavle guard for that cable to reduce presuure on the cable just in case.
Thats my big fear when printing long prints and when im not there. I try to make sur theres at least someone in the house.
Really unpleasant situation, leaving aside the poor quality of the creality materials not knowing the s1 I wonder if it works at 24v why hasn't the internal fuse blown? If I were you I would give it a check and put one of the right amperage and brand (I used a bosh one) and I feel a minimum safer.
Just get the new bed + 250 watt heater from Gulf Coast Robotics.. much flatter, better print quality, better evenly heated. Well worth the $130 upgrade price for the bed + heater.
This is a very similar failure mode that the anet a 6 had cheep cables going into reactor meltdown. my printer would have burned my house down if I wasn’t
Standing next to it when it shit the bed
Internally broken conductor: common issue with the bed cable on any bed flinger. Replace with fine strand wire, generally also silicone insulated (which in the event of the conductor failing and overheating or fusing at a spot like this in the future, also achieves desired results of preventing melting of insulation and thus short, and preventing fire, because silicone doesn't burn) and make sure there is adequate length and adequate support at the bed end.
I'm actually a bit surprised I have not needed to redo this particular harness yet on my Mark Two that likely has some random, PVC insulated, not fine strand hookup wire that was included in the kit, and that has been in service since 2017.
dude my ancubic kobra burnt my table..... i was in the bathroom when i smell some burnt piece and when I return due to hevy burning smell, the whole FUCKING TABLE is on fire. Unbelievable.1 month old Printer
https://preview.redd.it/37c2271niz3b1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97551b67ccf7a9202eba285e95ff9d6d2c7ca194
Exact same thing happend with me yesterday.
Smoke emanating from the power cord isn't something you can check. That's internal insulation melting. Signs of a bigger problem internal to the machine. Either the cable was faulty to begin with, or you're in an overcurrent situation somewhere.
Jesus... I have an S1 myself, and this is a pretty scary thought. How would you suggest to go about checking the cables before something like this happens?
I’d do a once over for kinks or melted spots before each print. Now I’ll be checking it very often
Bruh I have a 6 months old s1 pro. What kind of issues should I look out for this is my first printer
If it’s smoking, turn it off If it’s on fire, good luck
This is sound advice.
No, this is 3D printer advice.
If it's on fire try turning it off and back on again.
In all seriousness if it is on fire turn off the source of power. Either at the printer (if it is safe enough to do so) or the surge protector. If neither is an option then unplug or flip the breaker if possible. That may help put the fire out or reduce it a bit. Then use anything other then water (co2 extinguisher or smother) and make sure emergency services is on the way while doing all of this. The fire might be out by the time they get there (hopefully), but that doesn't mean the danger is over. They will be able to determine that better depending on how bad things got. If you got it in time and there is no worries of that and you called you can still call to cancel them from coming. In all silliness: you can now roast your 3d printed marshmallows.
Nothing major. This isn’t a common thing that’s been widely reported.
Maybe not on here but I have seen a bunch if posts about issues with the power supplies. From what I have seen it's usually someone who ran it on the wrong power setting.
Bad voltage selection (which is clearly articulated in the set up instructions), or pinching power cables is hardly the fault of the machine unless there’s some inherent design flaw.
I don't care who is at fault, just that the problem gets solved and hopefully someone doesn't burn their house down in the process. Creality is hardly a company known for quality though and I would not rule out there being inherently poor designs. I run a business with multiple Ender 3 printers and have seen a whole host of poor engineering and lack of QC from Creality. Enough to say I will not buy another item from them.
You get what you pay for.
I'd leave it plugged in for maybe a bit longer, all the smoke hasnt escaped yet.
Gotta get a couple more takes on video. The lighting could have been better on that last one.
For those wondering this is what it looked like from the bottom https://preview.redd.it/erxdlhyvsq3b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22454c837bb262d0d5545990b40d005fd5305580
Spicy cable
Wouldn’t eat it
5/7 with rice
angry upvote for the 5/7 reference
That makes me want to cry, for lack of a word. My S1 has been collecting dust for a year. I'm too busy with life shit to gain fun skills. I just feel bad that people the the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, and I have a machine with old Marlin firmware that max out at 40 mm/s. I know people who are perfectly happy with their Ender 3 from MicroCenter. If something terrible happened with my printer, I'd be bummed to have spent $450 for a device that became faulty.
What do you mean 40 mm/s, I was printing at 70 when my Ender 3 V2 was stock. You can totally get a raspberry pi or something similar, install klipper and print at 150 for like 50 bucks
You haven't been able to get a Raspberry Pi for MSRP for years unless you're as lucky as a lottery winner. They just announced they're increasing production but we'll see how that turns out. That said, once you can/do get one definitely go with klipper.
Honestly it’s an amazing printer. It’s not the best but the prints I’ve had were solid. This just throws me off. I don’t really trust it anymore
I think it’s more a fault of a bad cable that wasn‘t even produced by the company. Or is the error on the powersupply-box?
The S1 Pro is fantastic at least in terms of ender printers. It's still a creatily made printer of course but it has all the needed bells and whistles and I'm impressed with the print resolution even with the stock nozzle so far.
What an interesting failure point too, any signs of a cause?
I was told by creality support that it’s “excessive bending during transportation” but I’m unsure. Seemed fine and I baby my printers
They are effectively saying that the wires broke inside the line so that less contact points existed; thus resistance was increased and heat builds up. That seems like legalese from using shit wires.
Yeah that makes sense. Their alleged “optimized” hot bed is supposed to fix the issue so will see what happens.
What are they claiming? I mean consuming less power so your cables don't melt is a bad workaround at best
Translation: we use the smallest gauge wire we can to cut costs.
bingo, theyre probably riding the razors edge in terms of ampacity overhead. id also hazard a guess the internal wires are pvc jacketed instead of silicone which just speeds up the process
Recently repaired exactly the same problem 1:1 The cables seemed covered in silicone rather than PVC, I don't recall them being aluminium too. Had to cut into the plastic, then resolder and reseal it. It's not ideal, but rather a temp solution. The gauge could be considered good enough, but it depends. An improper design seems more likely since the issue I repaired was caused by user error and hard kinking the cable.
so the issue was the end user violated minimum bend radius? good to hear from someone who has firsthand insight to how these are built
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Copper > Chinesium
>!CENSORED!<
From the picture you posted on another comment, there are no sings of bending. Shitty creality.. Is scaring. I would ‘mod’ that cable totally replacing it.
it looks to me like there was a nick in the wire which led to a short circuit over time. if the conductors inside were nicked then that would lead to voltage drop which causes more amperage draw (which generates heat)
Are they sending replacement parts? Ask for a CR-30.
They said they’ll send me a newer or better bed. I’ll give it another try before looking into other options. I’ll keep a better eye on it tho
I don't think I'd want a creality replacement after that. I'd want to source and replace myself.
Yeah if this was a loose connection point on a board or something I’d get it, but for the moulded cable to start melting. Last place I’d expect something to go up in smoke
They should recall all these cables. This happened to HP some years ago. https://support.hp.com/gb-en/document/c04404446
Ideally they would ask OP for the NG cable and do an investigation of the failure if this is a first report for them. If this is not the first report of this specific failure it would definitely be warranted. To blame it on shipping damage right off the bat makes me feel this isn’t the first instance of this problem they’ve received.
If anything it sounded like a generic response. They couldn’t even get my name right in the emails, all I got was “dear customer” even though my name listed
Poorly designed strain relief. The strain relief portion of the cable is too stiff. So the cable just bends where it exits the strain relief. The wires are braided, so probably it slowly broke them until they there were fewer and fewer wire strands to carry the current. You get an area of high resistance and it gets hot real quick.
Peak creality quality. Hope nothing bad happened.
Thankfully it happened as I was levelling the bed.
Quick PSA to everyone, leveling your bed is a good idea, except from when it causes a fire
Just don’t level your bed because it causes fire
Have you tried levelling your bed?
As an Anycubic owner, anything to do with electrical wires is scary...
Yeah no kidding. I’d take a failed print over wiring issues any day.
For us is the bed thermistor wiring. It's very cheap and breaks inside the insulation so your bed temp suddenly goes whack and throws an error. I've resoldered mine 2 times now, finally with decent wiring.
Anycubic or Anet?
Yes
Funny thing is I have an Anet a8 as well and this one decided to burn
Anycubic
It’s reality that quality control has hit the ground floor and mis headed for the basement It’s not just chinese printers - I’ve had bad quality control with HPE enterprise hardwares, gaming hardware from all vendors. It has just hit rock bottom over the last couple of years
What's happening with QA? Did everyone just hire clones of my old boss or what?
Even simpler. They didn't hure anyone :)
>!CENSORED!<
Old QA saying: "when in doubt, ship it out"
Gotta keep those CEO bonuses up somehow!
True mate I’m SuRe all of us wouldn’t want their private plane to not have an internet connection. Of course if something goes wrong they will perform a complete investigation, while ignoring all the facts and burning all the evidence until of course they found one of us low paid plebs to take the fall. Of course one of us would end up in super max prison while they will get a hefty fine and maybe even miss lunch as a result. Justice is blind but it sure can smell money.
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How do you have it wired ? Is it diy or bought the product ?
These are usually advertised as "microwave smoke cut off" devices, to catch microwave fires. If you're in the USA, they have them at Home Depot and similar.
Thanks for your reply, will definitely look into it.
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Also a really good suggestion. Will look into it
I can smell it from here 🤢
It's just the new abs plastic scent candle I bought
Forbidden incense
The kind you hate to love
My s1's bed just stopped heating one day
It wanted to print tpu
yo that printer of yours is fire, OP
Should check out my mixtape. Complete opposite
Yeah maybe just film it instead of *unplugging the fucking power*
Doesn't he need to capture proof to send to Creality support?
Yeah that’s why I filmed it. Had my phone in my pocket too.
The cable needs to be replaced anyway. Now he's got proof of the issue and can raise awareness with this post. I'm glad he filmed it.
If this helps at least one person or helps in making creality fix their damn QA it’s worth taking the extra 10 sec to film it. However I do agree that in most situations filming is the last thing that should be done.
I didn’t even think of that, thank you
🤦♂️
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>!CENSORED!<
All for sciense!
That don't get the updoots though. Like 95% of the posts on r/wellthatsucks
Holy, that’s a scary thought to have.
Have you got enough clearance behind the bed to the wall when the bed is fully rearward? Kinda looks like the cable has been bent against the wall because theres not enough room, very possibly just a bad join from the factory though. Also if you're seeing something electrical actively trying to burn your house down you should turn it off before you reach for the phone
Exactly what I was thinking. From the video it looks like it's right up against the wall.
Yup. Repetitive snacks into the wall and it went during bed leveling is a pretty clear indicator the wire was pinched.
The table thing it’s sitting on is maybe 3 inches away from the wall. It’s not hitting the wall and besides leveling, haven’t really printed anything that causes the bed the move that far back throughout the print. As for the video, took it to hopefully help in the warranty claim.
Wasn't smoke signaling at the end of the print?! (Runs to check my ender 3v2 rebranded "Marlinboro red")
My 4 year old cr10s pro just went out the same way last week. I couldn’t find a replacement heated bed online and the pad came up when I desoldered the wire, so the bed was shot. I just bought a cr10 smart pro at micro center on Wed and I’m hoping to get at least 4 years out of this before I need to replace it. My anycubic photon S’s touch screen went out on my the prior weekend and I ordered the photon mono m5s but that won’t arrive until August. I had a bad printer week. FYI buy a smoke detector to place above your fdm printer everyone, may save a life.
I’m currently attempting to build an enclosure and that’s my plan. Will add another camera at the back and perhaps that fire suppression ball I’ve seen used on this subreddit. Definitely getting a smoke alarm too!
Factory's failure it happens. Guaranteed?
Got a year through creality support. Awaiting replacement now. Hopefully this never happens again.
Love the smell of burnt carcinogens in the morning.
Thank God i wired my 230V - 500W bed myself 😅
Sooooooo... anyone know anything about fire suppression systems that one could install at home?
>!CENSORED!<
Thanks so much for all the information!
I just bought a S1… I scared now
is this the cable going to the heatbed? what temp are you printing with? I mean the bed?
It was set at 60
Wow
Wowawiwow
Interesting. I've never seen a cable melt at this point. No way I would have figured it out beforehand. If I'd let the printer run on its own I'd just had to accept my faith of a burned down house I guess.
Wow, not good but at least it's only smoking. Guessing and hoping it's just a bad qc issue or maybe the wire wasn't seated right. I have a smart pro and it slightly worries me but in this case you would've never known.
Me too, me too. Hopefully the new bed fixes the issue and this was just an odd defect
What is even happening here? A short in the cable or something?
Either that or the cable was crimped and slowly melted away until it reached its failure point.
That’s… sad. Also why I bought a Raise3D E2. You know, for quality. So things like that don’t happen
Just 3D print one.
This is why I keep all of my cables exposed with no insulated. In that way can easily see any shorts or problems ☺️
You got a leak of magic smoke there.
Could it be arcing inside the cable causing it to burn through? Did you hear a arcing zapping noise while filming? Or popping noise?
Nothing really. At first I even thought it was maybe filament or something. Didn’t believe that the printer decided to start burning until I looked closer and smelled it.
Probably a minor defect in one of the wires, a tiny break. And likely the wire awg is riding the limits to keep the size/cost down, so any little defect will become an issue, probably failed a long time ago or bad from the factory and it’s now finally gotten bad enough to create enough heat to melt the cable
Excellent QC
Was it catching the rear stepper motor when you'd print? Had to tighten mine up so it would stop, was afraid it would eventually rip itself out or short it
From when I set it up I made sure to clear everything and ensure it’s smooth. Maybe I missed something and it was ever slightly touching but even then the spot where the burn is, it’s almost impossible to touch anything.
Not the magic smoke! That's what makes many things work. If it escapes most things don't work anymore
The exact same thing happened to me! And I have the exact same model! Started to give me errors that the bed never got up in temp. And I split the cable and searched for the fault and it was the red powercable. It looked like the copper wire had been cut off and not worn off. Cause It was a clean cut. They REALLY need to look in to this before something serious happens! (Im a electrican so I know what im doing and looking for so I dont recomend anyone to do the same!)
Ironically, it looks like the thick insulation is what caused this to happen, I wonder if removing it would allow the cables to be more flexible, and thus avoid this happening again? On the other hand, have you been doing any large prints? Maybe ones that made the bed move all the way to the back? Possibly hitting the wall? Because in the bottom view picture, I can see the thick insulation surrounding the wires coming out of the stress relief grommet. This suggest repetitive stress on that joint. And thus, this would cause the wires to bend/short out. Also, if you dont mind, could you trace the power wires for the bed back to the motherboard and check their gauge? So we can verify this might have been the cause?
Magic smoke!
It’s ok once the smoke goes out
It’s just warming up
RMA it
Instead of unplugging i think ill record this 😅
That's why I love tinkering community. Something's burning? Turn it off? Let's film it!!! (I'm this way myself)
Do it for science !! Also warranty claim
reminder to not film and do something about the situation if shits going down.
If something's burning already, it's already a short circuit, isn't it? I mean if it killed something, it can't kill anything else later. Would love to know if I'm wrong
Are you talking about the SOVOL SV01 PRO???
Creality Ender-3 S1
Probably used wires that were too small (but might have been just big enough if you use PWM control) that somehow broke when being bent (due to being very small) or was soldered / crimped there (likely highest point of resistance on the wire, causing a lot of heat)
Tinted leads
I don't understand why people still buy Ender machines. Their QC is awful and their machines are not as good as the competition.
It seems some of the electric cables within that line broke their insulation and the live wire touched or were near enough for a shortcut, creating heat like a toaster. Possibly the cable was bend during transportation or installation.
Nah, more like the wires broke and only a few strands remain connected, causing high resistance.
Yeah, a short circuit would be way more violent. Unless they implemented short circuit protection that is.
Very much agreed. Moreover SCs are very easily detectable and lifesavers cut off electricity to the whole house almost instantly if one were to occur.
Why would you keep it energized for taking a video?
Hmmmm...Maybe...UNPLUG IT!
Bruh I’ve had the s1 since last year. So about a year now.. zero issues.
This really shouldn't be a thing
I had this happen to my S1 Pro as well and posted in this sub to get some help. I was told by a user that the likely cause was because my cord was hitting the back wall of my fabric enclosure, causing friction and wear over time. I can’t tell from your video, but is it possible that your cord is hitting the wall behind your printer?
I'm really considering buying a FDM printer but this it the exact thing that bothers me.. Of course i wouldn't let my printer run while i'm not here, but fire can spread fast.. really fast.. Not catching this in time could result in a catastrophic failure :(
Having the printer on a fireproof surface or even better a fireproof enclosure, and no flammable material nearby is something to consider.
I have one as well and just had to replace the bed due to a failure in this area as well, it didn’t short out like this one did though. While I was waiting for the new bed to arrive I took apart the harness and inspected the wiring, they use very fine multi strand wire which is silver, it’s extremely flexible but felt very cheap. I would assume the wiring they need to use has to withstand the constant repetitive movements but I couldn’t see a way to improve the harness without losing flexibility.
Within a week of getting mine I had gouges in the bed cable from it rubbing against the motor. Went ahead and printed a bed chain and strain relief boot it to protect it. Hopefully that prevents things like this.
Was it bending against that wall behind it the whole time? You probably work hardened the copper inside.
This is why I installed a smoke detector on the wall behind my printer
So... Did creality happen to tell you what the amperage draw of that machine is supposed to be? If you can find that out you can put an ammeter on this line coming in and see if the problem is too much draw, or if it was just a bad lead. Hopefully it was just a bad lead, and the lead can be easily replaced or you can make your own if you want to have more confidence. If you are really fed up with this or concerned about going forward, you could send this whole machine and the wire to me and I will look into it for you. Let me know.
No, didn’t think of asking but that’s a good idea. Once I get my replacement bed I’ll look into it more and can post an update too.
Electric tape should fix it
What cable you cooking? Smells delicious
Dude, all your magic smoke is getting out. Better check your seals.
„I know what’s wrong with it - ain’t got No gas in it!”
So lets say this happened what should i do how can i fix it im new to this stuff can someone explain im thinking about buying a 3d printer and as a tight budget hobbiest i thought s1 looks good is there any alternatives other than a prusa
This is the 3 s1 pro? Their cables for the hotbed are just crap. I am supposed to be sent a new hotbed due to it stopping to work.
[удалено]
New setting unlocked. Just change the setting in your slicer. It's the new flame effecr under special mode.
Magic smoke means it’s working
How do you fix this? I’ve never fudged with that cable before so I don’t know if it’s repairable or not
Hopefully you’re within the warranty period and submit a claim, otherwise I’d probably go 3rd party as some of the other users have mentioned
Man, meanwhile my OG CR-10 is still chugging along. Haven’t had any issues except replacing the stock extruder for not plastic one
Don't let all the smoke out, your hot end won't work.
What you leave it run in the whole time?
My first printer had exposed contacts for the heat bed and I accidentally put a paper lamp on the contacts and caught it on fire, it was a rough lesson learned that day.
Any thing can become a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough
It's super hard to put the smoke back in, I suggest turning it off.
Is it a low amp cable or something? It looks like a molex, so I am just wondering if a low amp molex might cause this?
Installed a cavle guard for that cable to reduce presuure on the cable just in case. Thats my big fear when printing long prints and when im not there. I try to make sur theres at least someone in the house.
Really unpleasant situation, leaving aside the poor quality of the creality materials not knowing the s1 I wonder if it works at 24v why hasn't the internal fuse blown? If I were you I would give it a check and put one of the right amperage and brand (I used a bosh one) and I feel a minimum safer.
Just get the new bed + 250 watt heater from Gulf Coast Robotics.. much flatter, better print quality, better evenly heated. Well worth the $130 upgrade price for the bed + heater.
I'm so happy I recently bought a fire alarm to go above my printer.
This is a very similar failure mode that the anet a 6 had cheep cables going into reactor meltdown. my printer would have burned my house down if I wasn’t Standing next to it when it shit the bed
Internally broken conductor: common issue with the bed cable on any bed flinger. Replace with fine strand wire, generally also silicone insulated (which in the event of the conductor failing and overheating or fusing at a spot like this in the future, also achieves desired results of preventing melting of insulation and thus short, and preventing fire, because silicone doesn't burn) and make sure there is adequate length and adequate support at the bed end. I'm actually a bit surprised I have not needed to redo this particular harness yet on my Mark Two that likely has some random, PVC insulated, not fine strand hookup wire that was included in the kit, and that has been in service since 2017.
dude my ancubic kobra burnt my table..... i was in the bathroom when i smell some burnt piece and when I return due to hevy burning smell, the whole FUCKING TABLE is on fire. Unbelievable.1 month old Printer
https://preview.redd.it/37c2271niz3b1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97551b67ccf7a9202eba285e95ff9d6d2c7ca194 Exact same thing happend with me yesterday.
Smoke emanating from the power cord isn't something you can check. That's internal insulation melting. Signs of a bigger problem internal to the machine. Either the cable was faulty to begin with, or you're in an overcurrent situation somewhere.
Do you have a fire insurance for your home? Now might be the time to get one
Creality quality
And by all means if it starts smoking spend the time to take a video for the rest of us rather than immediately I'm playing it from the wall.