1 - never run it dry. That’s silly. If you’re putting fluid in the master anyway, what’s the point? Especially when you run the risk of pushing air into the system. Big no no. Cleaning the bleeder is easy. Just run some alcohol through there it takes 10 seconds.
2- sometimes you might pull air through the bleed screw. You’ll get a zillion tiny bubbles forever.
Swapping fluids shouldn't have much air going through the lines if at all. It's a closed system, fluid replaces fluid. I've replaced lines for SS, which obviously had a bit of air to bleed, but no issues when doing a regular bleed.
Maybe it had something to do with the pressure thingy? I've never used one of them, always went with pumping the pedal.
I'm not totally discrediting a slight chance of that. The critical part of using it dry is to not let the reservoir fluid get too low, as that's when it could introduce air. I felt like I kept it full enough during the process, but maybe the pickup in the reservoir is higher. The common way of using one of those bleeders is to put your new fluid inside the bleeder bottle, and then new fluid gets pumped into the reservoir as you bleed. The dry way provides a non-existent clean up, compared to a bit of a mess and clean up process when using it wet.
If the pedal felt the same after I think I'd lean towards an error on my part. I know there was some air in the system as I immediately got bubbles when I first opened up the bleed screw with a full reservoir. Maybe it was a combination of some air in the system and a hiccup on my part. Maybe when I sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir and then refilled it somehow caused some air.
I thought the same but turns out it was the line draining the brake valve was slightly loose causing mini bubbles, I have the motive drain bottle too and it was weighing down and yanking slightly on the line
1 - never run it dry. That’s silly. If you’re putting fluid in the master anyway, what’s the point? Especially when you run the risk of pushing air into the system. Big no no. Cleaning the bleeder is easy. Just run some alcohol through there it takes 10 seconds. 2- sometimes you might pull air through the bleed screw. You’ll get a zillion tiny bubbles forever.
I wondered about that sometimes. You're saying it pulls air through/around the threads of the bleed screw when it's loosened?
Yup! I experienced that with my 86.
Swapping fluids shouldn't have much air going through the lines if at all. It's a closed system, fluid replaces fluid. I've replaced lines for SS, which obviously had a bit of air to bleed, but no issues when doing a regular bleed. Maybe it had something to do with the pressure thingy? I've never used one of them, always went with pumping the pedal.
I'm not totally discrediting a slight chance of that. The critical part of using it dry is to not let the reservoir fluid get too low, as that's when it could introduce air. I felt like I kept it full enough during the process, but maybe the pickup in the reservoir is higher. The common way of using one of those bleeders is to put your new fluid inside the bleeder bottle, and then new fluid gets pumped into the reservoir as you bleed. The dry way provides a non-existent clean up, compared to a bit of a mess and clean up process when using it wet. If the pedal felt the same after I think I'd lean towards an error on my part. I know there was some air in the system as I immediately got bubbles when I first opened up the bleed screw with a full reservoir. Maybe it was a combination of some air in the system and a hiccup on my part. Maybe when I sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir and then refilled it somehow caused some air.
I thought the same but turns out it was the line draining the brake valve was slightly loose causing mini bubbles, I have the motive drain bottle too and it was weighing down and yanking slightly on the line
I always use the power bleeder as sort of a baseline and then finish the fronts with a few manual pumps. Rock hard pedal every time.
As long as the air is out now ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ Either way - I always go 8/10ths first session of the day to warm up and suss out any issues with the car.
Eh. Usually those bubbles in the hose are just air getting in through the threads. Your system likely had zero air in it.